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Welcome to the washing machine FAQ page. If you want to attempt a DIY repair on a faulty machine, check out this page, and the washing machine hints page
All information used at your own risk. Please see the site DISCLAIMER.
Q: I have a machine on a laminate floor, how do I protect it
A: If you have a LAMINATE FLOOR in your utility room or kitchen area, where your dryer or washing machine are located, it is a good idea to protect your floor from any dampness or slight water leakage. The ideal simple and cheap way of doing this, is to purchase APPLIANCE TRAYS that are specifically designed to do this. They are less than £10, from http://www.birbek.com/ (See the “floor protection” link on their site).
Q: How do I find my proper machine model number?
A: This can be tricky to find on some models. Bear in mind that the case model (what shows on the front) may be vastly different to what some European manufacturers (especially BOSH and AEG) refer to as an ENR number. This is a MUST to locate your spares. It is sometimes necessarry to give your spares supplier the SERIAL NUMBER too, in case the spares change across a model (called a serial-split). This may be shown as an FNR close to where the ENR is on the plate. Fortunately the ESPARES site has a very good information page on how to locate this information for many models. Please see: http://www.espares.co.uk/guides/washing-machines/a/41/finding-mod el-numbers.html
Q: My machine leaks around the door.
A: This is usually the door seal. Most machines incorporate a one-piece combined door seal and outer drum seal (often just called a DOOR GASKET). Some older AEG machines just had a large thick seal held between the 2 halves of the door. The combined seals can be tricky to replace. Some have a springy ring that has to go over the part of the seal that goes over the outer drum lip, some have a spring metal ring on the outside of the front part ensure good grip on to the front panel . For those you will need PDL (Patience, Dexterity, and Luck)! In some cases, the door seals are put in on the front panel first in the factory, then the drum assembly is put in, and the seal pushed over the outer drum. This means that for some models, a lot of stripping down will have to be done, just to replace the drum to door seal! Here is a link to the HINTS page for a procedure for changing a HOTPOINT AQUARIUS SEAL/DOOR GASKET
Q: My machine leaks a bit when filling or spinning
A: This is usually the flexible hose that goes between the dispenser unit, and the top right side of the outer drum. This hose probably gets the most physical movement and distortion during spinning, and therefore is usually the one that develops a small split first. These can usually be replaced by removing the dispenser unit, and the large clips that secure the pipe to the unit, and to the outer drum. If you have to remove any of the small rubber pipes from the top of the dispenser unit, tag each one and make a diagram so you know which one goes back where.
Q: My machine leaks as soon as it fills with water
A: This is either the large pipe that connects from the BOTTOM of the outer drum, to the suds pump inlet, or the pump body itself, or the seal inside the pump. This may be tricky to work out where the leak is coming from, but just use a good torch, with the back removed, and watch it through a short cycle. If it is a plastic pump, they usually have small star-screws holding the 2 parts of the pump body together. Try tightening these, if they are loose. If the machine is over 8 years old and has had a lot of use, it will most likely be the pump seal. See the APPLIANCE SPARES section. EZEE-FIX sell a universal pump kit (number 1600159) that will replace a lot of Hotpoint, Creda, and Indesit pumps, for around £14.
Q: My machine is noisy on spin
A: This can be a symptom of drum bearing wear (see related FAQ HERE). A quick check for wear is to see if the inner drum moves up and down relative to the fixed outer drum. It should only move a minute amount. If it moves more than a millimetre or two, it is probably worn bearings. You can obtain bearing kits for most makes. See this very useful link specific to an AEG model, but it is a good general reference: http://heneghan.members.beeb.net/appliances/aeg_bearing.html
If it is making unusual noises while washing too, check there is not a bra wire or similar object trapped half way into one of the drum holes. A high pitched whine is sometimes caused by the motor bearings (but most brush/commutator motors whine a bit anyway on higher speeds, it is normal). Oil sparingly so as not to contaminate the carbon brushes.
Q: My machine motor runs, but the drum does not turn.
A: This is usually the drive belt. Most modern machines will detect this as a “motor speed” error, or “tacho error”, and may display an error code. Check in your user guide for this. The drive belt is one of the easiest parts to replace. Just ensure that if you do have to loosen the motor mounting bolts, you get the correct tension on the belt before tightening them up. A good rule of thumb, is 1 KG pressure should distort the belt by 10 to 15 MM, in the centre of its longest run. Adjustment is similar to a fan belt on a car, via a slotted hole in one of the motor mounting points.
Q: My machine will not start, and continually displays an error code.
A: A lot of the more “normal” error codes may be in your user guide or instruction book, but some more technical ones will not. If its not listed, contact one of the spares companies listed on this site, they may have the information (the EZEE-FIX forum is very good). If not, see if the manufacturer has a TECHNICAL department, willing to give you this information. See HERE for the error codes page.
- Example, an F1 on some AEG models means that it could not sense any water coming in (water supply blocked). Check that the inlet supply pipe is not blocked, and that the shut-off tap has not been accidentally turned off.
- F2 on some AEG models indicates that it senses that it has been unable to pump the water out. Check that the outlet pipe is not blocked, or that the pump vanes are not jammed by a button or other foreign object. Most machines have a screw off cover that enables you to check this. HOWEVER, BEFORE DOING THIS: you will need to go though whatever the “emergency draining” procedure is for your machine, otherwise there will be a lot of water coming out of that cover! This is usually quoted as a procedure that is done when there is a power failure (since the door opening mechanism will not work without power, or with certain faults present, or with the water level over a certain detected amount). It usually entails unclipping a small draining tube, and taking out a bung, and using a small container to empty the water into a bucket.Takes ages! If the pump vanes are free to move, and there is no outlet blockage (you may need to remove the pipe to check this), then the pump may have failed. Remove it, and check it on a test bench (see the WASHING MACHINE HINTS)
- Other fault codes (e.g. F3 to F9 on AEG): Other codes are usually more technical, and often you are referred to the service agent. However, if you write to the head office, you can usually obtain some information about these codes, as they are obliged to supply it. For instance, and F9 or C9 on some AEG models is: MOTOR or MOTOR TACHO FAILURE. This usually means that the brushes have worn down, and the electronics was expecting some output from the Tachometer on the end of the motor shaft, to show that the motor is actually turning, when power is applied to it. See [testing brushes]. NOTE: even when you have fixed the problem, on some modern machines, you STILL HAVE TO CLEAR THE FAULT CODE with the the washing machine equivalent of the PC CTRL+ALT+DEL!! On an AEG, try this: hold the PRE-WASH and SHORT-WASH buttons in together, then turn the control knob from OFF to the GENTLE-SPIN position. This should clear the fault indication, and run an LED test. If this does not clear the fault indication, you may have another fault, so check your motor connections (you did put the motor connector plug back??). See HERE for the error codes page.
- NOTE: the C9 on some AEG LAVAMAT models like the 71400, 72600,74620, 86720 and possibly others, is the same as the above F9, and is usually MOTOR BRUSHES WORN OUT. After replacement, you will need to clear the fault indication held in the PROGRAMMER PCB logic: With the Switch in the OFF position - Press and hold PRE-WASH and SOAKING buttons in at the same time, then turn the control knob to Short Spin. Wait one or two seconds and all the indicators should illuminate. Then turn the control knob to OFF. All the indicators should go out. Then try and use your machine as normal. This should clear the C9 error code. If it does NOT – there may be another fault present.
Q: My Zanussi FJS1225W is showing an E90 error code, what does this mean?
A: I have had a few emails on this one, and it seems to be a common error code on some Zanussi models. This error code seems to be the control board detecting a wrong configuration (in other words, an illogical set of sensing conditions, from its connected sensors and wiring). It apparently can happen, when wires become badly contacting, or if contaminated with motor brush carbon (the horrible black powder that comes off the motor commutator and brushes), or corroded from other contaminants from the soap dispenser area. You should be able to check this, remove, clean and replace the contacts:
Take the top off the machine, (ENSURE IT IS UNPLUGGED) and on the right hand side of the machine, you should see a set of 4 blue wires that go from the electronics module to the front display unit. Take this plug off (it is held on by plastic retainers) clean with wd40, or silicone (Servisol) contact cleaner, then dry, replace, then try again. If it is very badly corroded or pitted, you may have to replace that part of the wiring and socket.
If it is not that, then the wiring to/from various other sensors could be damaged, or the control board could be faulty. It is probably worth checking around other plugs and sockets, re-seating each one in turn, that lead to the control board, before calling an engineer in, or getting a spare board, as they are expensive (£60 - £80). Pulling off and plugging back on (Re-seating) the plugs and sockets has the effect of cleaning the contacts, and may fix certain intermittent faults like this. Obviously check for any plugs/sockets that appear burnt, corroded, or discoloured compared with the others, and clean the contacts with emery or a needle file. See HERE for the error codes page.
Q: My Zanussi FJD146W is showing an E20 error code, what does it mean?
A: Thanks to MT of Gateshead for this one. This particular code is used when the machine detects a pump problem or water draining problem (failure to properly pump all the water off in the designated time). In this case, the fault would occurr just before attempting to spin. It turned out to be a blocked filter, accessible from the bottom front of the machine. Sometimes intermittent FALSE errors like this can come up if there are high resistance (oxidised) contacts between the ribbon cable that goes from the POWER CARD to the facia panel electronics. To fix that sort of problem, remove any retaining clips from the end that plugs into the facia panel, remove and replug the cable end a few times. This gives the contacts a “wipe-clean” action and can remove the oxide. Obviously if the cable or contacts are badly corroded or burnt, then replace it. Here are a few more error codes of interest: E10 - not filling
E20 - not draining
E40 - door open
EFO - Filter blocked
See HERE for the error codes page.
Q: Nothing runs on my machine at all, but power light is on
A: This is often the electronic control card, or motor relay, but it is often worth unplugging and reseating any component connector plugs and sockets, as they can work loose, and low-level electronic sensors rely on good connections. WITH ALL POWER OFF: check all you can see, and reseat any you can see (i.e. unplug and replug. This has the effect of self-cleaning the plug and socket contacts), especially the motor ones, and re-test your fault. Pay particular attention to any plug and socket that looks corroded, burnt, brown, or otherwise discoloured compared with the rest. High resistance contacts can create intermittent faults, and cause high current parts of the machine to stop working (e.g. heating elements, or motors) Pull off any suspect plug/socket, and clean the contacts with a small file or emery board . If you remove and test any control relay, test the relay coil with a meter, for continuity. This test will partially eliminate the relay, but will not test contacts (do a visual check for burning/pitting), then turn your attention to the control board. If you are confident with soldering, locate any THYRISTORS on this card. A lot of HOTPOINT models use the BT136 series. You can replace these with higher rating ones, like BT137, 138, 139, 140. If it is anything else, then it will be beyond the scope of a DIY task. You could order and replace the circuit card, at around £50 to £60, but it will be a waste of time and money if it is not that. NOTE: I have just found (Jan 2006) a really useful looking site that will repair your boards, or may be able to supply repaired ones. NON-TRADE orders will have 25% surcharge added to the trade prices you see, plus £3.50 P&P. This sounds very reasonable, looking at the prices for Zanussi boards. The link below shows the model selection page for most well known makes, from AEG to Zanussi:
http://www.qer.biz/Lists.htm
If you know your PCB number details, use this link: http://www.qer.biz/prodRepairs.asp
Main site link: http://www.qer.biz
Q: I get some rusty spots on clothes, what can cause his?
A: This can be a tough one to fix,but it is often best to start with a couple of simple checks. First, check the rubber door seal. These can act as a trap for screws, washers and bolts, because of the shape of it. On a lot of models, the section that attaches to the front case, and the section that attaches to the outer drum is sprung very close together, and you have to pull apart the two sections a bit to see if any rusty debris like this HAS been trapped. It is useful to check this every time any clothes from a car/garage job is washed! You will be amazed at the “bits” that can accumulate in this rubber “groove”, like buttons, bits of zips, broken bra bits. I even found a soggy spider once! If you did not find any rusty “DIY debris”, it may be that they have worked their way down into the pump filter cover. This usually unscrews from the front, for inspection and cleaning. CARE: YOU WILL NEED TO DRAIN THE SUMP AREA BEFORE YOU DO THIS. CHECK YOUR MACHINE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY. SEE COMMENTS LINKED HERE. If it is not that, you may be unlucky enough to have some rusty debris sitting in the bottom of the outer drum, that occasionally “agitates” some rusty particles up into the wash,during a wash cycle. You could try a descaler specifically for washing machines, to see if it will shift it, or dissolve it a bit, but you may have to have the rubber sump pipe removed (that is the large rubber pipe that attaches to the lowest part of the outer drum), to see if the “bits” can be fished out. Otherwise,its a major strip-down job to remove the inner drum, and clean the outer drum. Note that bronze coins in the outer drum rarely cause a problem with rust spots, but these CAN find their way into the pump, and cause it to jam, if you are unlucky.
Q: How do I remove the failed drum bearings on my Zanussi Washer / Dryer WDS1183W?
(From DaveK of Notts, thanks for your useful input)
A: This turned out to be a major strip-down: Outer belt pulley is held on with single nut, but the “spider assembly” is screwed to the rear outer drum by six nuts. Although there is one bearing in the 3 legged “spider” (this spreads the mechanical load across the outer drum), to get to inner bearing, Dave had to take out the drums, then split outer drum (lots of screws all in the wrong places!! ) only then could he remove the inner drum as well as gain access to the inner bearing which is a real pain to remove from the rear outer half drum. The inner drum shaft (part of the inner "spider" held on with six nuts) had some slight damage but at fifty quid plus it will have to do. Too many (otherwise usable) parts replaced would make it uneconomical. Specific bearing parts here: http://www.electricalsales.co.uk/vacuum_cleaner_spares.asp?id=9124
and some parts and pictures available here: http://www.domestic-appliance-spares.co.uk/?id=washerhelp There were some useful parts references and pictures at KUA too (this is www.keepingupappliances.com) I believe a kit is available there that comprises of the rear outer drum, with bearing, for this model. NOTE: when replacing bearings, ensure that any bearing seals are replaced with the appropriate new ones from the bearing kit, as many bearing failures are the result of failed seals allowing water to get into the bearings.
Q: AEG Lavamat takes several minutes to start filling when program start selected. It used to start within a minute What causes this? (AEG 50600).
A: This will be the thermal door interlock getting “lazy”, or weak in getting to the “LOCKED” position, and changing over its switch contacts. This is a device that prevents the door being opened. Older machines used to lock only during spin cycles. It is current operated, and moves an interlock bar by a bi-metallic strip contact. The part is located inside the front case, just behind where the square locking piece is on the door.It is held in with a couple of screws that go from the front case panel. It can be reached by removing/detaching part of the door rubber seal assembly, to get at the part inside the front case. It can be a bit fiddly to replace, but the plug/socket is polarised, and only goes on one way. Part and FAQ courtesy of JohnL of Northants. (AEG 50600 model).NOTE: if this symptom above is happening, on this model, get the part replaced as soon as possible, otherwise if it fails in the locked position, part of the door lock mechanism may have to be replaced as well. NOTE FOR OTHER MODELS: other models and interlock types may also give a problem at the END of a wash cycle, rather than the beginning, and the door can stay locked for longer than normal, when the bi-metal strip is slow returning to unlocked position.
Q: HOTPOINT WASHER/DRYER (800 plus, model 9924) will not dry clothes properly.
A:From R.B. of Birmingham This problem can be caused by either failed heating elements in the heater box ducting (see next FAQ below), or the dryer blower motor failing, or lint/fluff build-up in the hot-air ducting that leads to the drum. In this case, although the blower-motor was very noisy, and probably running slower than it should, the main problem was caused by a large build-up of damp lint and fluff, in the rear flat part of the plastic ducting that leads from the motor mounting hole, down to the drum (the FAN DUCT). This is difficult to get at to clean, and although it can be removed via the motor mounting hole, it is best to remove all the mounting screws and remove the plastic part for cleaning and inspection. Once the motor is removed (pull off and mark the 3 water feed pipes first, along with the steady-bracket. Note there are 4 motor mounting screws, and the bottom one will have to be removed by “feel”.) there are 4 small hex head screws holding the top of the duct to the heater-box, and 5 or 6 philips/hex head screws holding the lower part to the drum. If the whole drum unit is pushed frontwards and tilted slightly on its mountings, the duct will clear the top frame for removal. The top plastic seal will be a bit sticky, so the duct might need a tug. Check the groove holding the lower seal ring around the hole on the right side of the drum. If it is expanded due to corrosion (so the seal sits too proud of the groove), clean off the powdery corrosion with a sharp pointed needle file or small screwdriver blade, and glue the seal back in place with a few dots of contact adhesive. The lint and fluff pieces can be pushed out of the duct with a plastic ruler or similar object. When the duct is clear of fluff, replace it. Note that the new motor will come with a new seal strip. This should be fitted into the groove in the top of the FAN DUCT. Use some contact adhesive to keep it in place before fitting the motor back. Note that the picture of the old motor shows the old seal stuck to the motor body. THE INSTRUCTION BOOKLET WITH THE 9924 WASHER-DRIER RECOMMENDS THAT AFTER EACH DRYING CYCLE, THE MACHINE IS PUT ON A SHORT RINSE AND SPIN CYCLE TO WASH AWAY ANY FLUFF/LINT BUILD-UP, AFTER REMOVING THE DRIED CLOTHES.
Q: HOTPOINT WASHER/DRYER (800 plus, model 9924) blew the fuse and now the drying cycle takes a long time.
A:From R.B. of Birmingham If the washer/dryer runs OK after replacing the fuse, but the drying cycle has been affected, it is most likely one of the two heating elements in the top of the heater box. These are very easy and quick to replace, just remove the top, and there are 2 philips screws retaining each one. The terminals are just standard spade push fit. See the Hotpoint one on the right. To test these with a meter, REMOVE POWER FIRST, PULL OFF SPADE CONNECTORS. This one had gone open circuit, but they can short to the metal body, which will be earthed, and will continue to blow the plug fuse or breaker, unless the wires are disconnected. Normal reading for a 1000 WATT example is 50 to 55 OHMS across the spade terminals. NOTE: provided you disconnect and tape up the removed spade connectors, the machine should function on WASH CYCLES ONLY until you get your spare. Thanks to RB of Birmingham for this FAQ. The spare was obtained from EZEE-FIX (PART HPW504, for Hotpoint 9000 series).
Q: HOTPOINT ULTRA WD860P WASHER/DRYER - NO HEAT
A: This machine would not heat in the drying cycle from new - the fault was an open-circuit heater element. Since it was under warantee, the Hotpoint engineer replaced the complete assembly (see picture above), as it obviously takes a shorter time to replace a major assembly like this (5 screws instead of the extra 10 to split the blower duct and change the element). The internal cost of the part is obviously much cheaper that we can get it. HINT: if ever you have a major part like this replaced, NEVER throw it away, as it may contain other usable spares. In this case the Blower Motor, thermistor, and safety thermostat are all brand-new and usable. Thanks to RB of Birmingham for this FAQ information.
Q: HOTPOINT WASHER WF640 a sock is stuck in the drain sump or pump, how do I remove it
A: This is a surprisingly common problem, particularly with small childrens’ socks, and certain machines may be more prone to it than others, depending upon the gap between the inner drum, and the seal. On some machines, engineers sometimes remove one of the plastic “agitator bars” (or paddle) that are located around the inner drum. They help move the clothes around during washing, as the drum goes clockwise and anticlockwise. I suspect that the locating tabs have to be compressed to unclip these (A large pair of water-pump pliers or similar tool may compress the paddle from both sides and release them).
Whe one paddle is removed, there is access to the sump hose (the lowest hose on the drum, that leads to the pump), and if the item can be seen at the drum end of the hose, then it can be removed with some long-nosed pliers or similar.
The other method (if the item cannot be seen, is deep into the sump outlet pipe, or is actually in the pump body) is to turn off and disconnect the water inlet pipes, and the outlet pipe from the stand-pipe / drain point, and ensure that all water has been emptied from this (it may contain a pint or two).
Then move the machine to a point where you can tilt it on its side no more than 45 degrees(get a friend to help, as it will be heavy), and you can locate the sump-hose and pump from the underneath (WARNING: do not put the machine completeley on its side, or tilt it back, as it may damage wiring). You will need to loosen off the clip or clamp that holds the sump-hose on to the drum, pull it off (careful, there may be 2 more pints of water in that sump area), then hopefully you can them see your sock etc. If you cannot see it, it may have made its way to the pump body, in which case you will need to remove the pipe at the pump end. Again there should be a similar clamp/clip, that uses a screwdriver to loosen (they can be fairly tight, use a twisting and pulling motion to loosen and pull off, ensuring that the clip is loose enough to allow the hose to pull off the raised lip on the pump inlet pipe) . Ensure all debris and lint are removed from the pump inlet, and that the pump vanes are free to rotate, before putting the hose back.
When everything is back in place, ensure that all inlet and outlet pipes are securely in place, and run a short rinse cycle to test the machine.
Q: How can I prevent socks getting past the seal into the drum?
A: To prevent the problem of socks getting past the rubber seal into the outer drum, as in the previous FAQ, my wife has found a BRILLIANT little set of special handy plastic sock clips designed to keep socks paired together in the wash, but they will also work very well for this purpose. They are sold by MORRISON’s supermarket chain, and only cost £1.49! The pack is called a SOCKIE, and it contains 4 packs of 3 sets for these clips, enough for 12 pairs of socks. See the picture on the right.
Q: My machine smells a bit musty and mouldy, what can cause this
A: This is a fairly common problem, where a bad odour comes from the washing machine or washer dryer, especially after a lot of low temperature wash use.
First let's set your mind at rest: there is no component that can fail to cause a bad odour from inside a washer. In nearly all cases, it will be from some external source, or most likely the way the machine is used.
There are two major factors that can cause the problem that you should check before calling any service department.
1. Do you use liquid detergent?
If this is so, then this is most likely the problem as there is no chlorine bleaching agents in liquid powder and it has a tendency leave the machine smelling a bit after a while. It is also prone to over-dosing, which can lead to a congealed mass of hardened detergent in the inner or outer drum which, in bad cases can actually corrode the drum shaft.
The cure is to either do what is called a "Maintenance Wash" (a boil wash with no clothes or detergent in) at least once per month, preferrably twice, or use powder (for Whites, not colours, so you know it should have bleaching agents in) and wash through a boil wash empty. Or you can use dishwasher cleaner or Washing Soda Crystals, or even bicarbonate of soda, all are very effective at cleaning this. The Waitrose Dishwasher Cleaner is about half the cost of the Finish product, and I have occasionally seen a similar product specifically for washing machines by Buster (Challs Ltd), but I am not sure if it is still available. I notice that HOTPOINT user manuals (and maybe others) now recommend a Maintenance Wash every few weeks.
2. Backfilling from the house waste.
Sometimes appliances are incorrectly installed (badly installed stand-pipe outlet and/or U-bend) allowing dirty water from the drain to come back into the appliance, via the outlet drain pipe. If you see the appliance slowly filling when it's switched off it is almost certain that this is the problem and you will need it fixed, or get a plumber if not sure how to.
Q: My Hotpoint WF60 machine has gone into a “test mode”, how do I get it back to normal?
A: Some Hotpoint’s are designed to go into test mode when the start button and the on/off button are pressed at the same time. If you are stuck in Test mode, simply hold the start button down until it comes out of test mode, then hold both the start buttons and the on/off button down until you see ‘D:end’ (or similar message). Now try a normal wash programme again and hopefully it should be fine. If it goes into test mode by itself, then it may be an indication that there is a real fault, or a faulty programmer board.
Q: My Hotpoint WF64 machine tends to splash and leak from the dispenser drawer. What can cause this?
A: Sometimes the water pressure might be too high for the water spray pattern from the top of the dispenser to work without splashing.It is also possible that some of the holes could be blocked with softener and soap scum, so the flow is too fast from the remaining ones that are OK. Modern low temperature BIO powders (where a BOIL program is rarely used) tend to stimulate the build-up of this sludge and jelly-like deposit. Try removing the dispenser (you will need a hard tug for the last inch), then clean it in hot soapy water. Pay particular attention to the little siphon cap that pull off the siphon hoile in the softener compartment. Use LIME-LITE or similar to remove any stubborn scale from the drawer areas. Then use a good torch to check out the holes in the top of the dispenser compartment. If you have a small stiff brush, or any old-fashioned pipe-cleaners, this may remove the sludge and deposits form the spray holes. If the above does not fix this, try fitting a pressure reducing disc where the inlet pipe screws on the back of the machine. Also check in case the HOT FILL PIPE (if yours is a hot and cold-fill model) is too high in pressure. NOTE: The WM63 model can also suffer from this splashing or leaking. You may find you were supplied with a pressure reducing disc in the inlet at installation time (and your engineer may have removed it), or it might have been tied to the pipe with a rubber band when new. Don’t confuse it with the normal rubber sealing washer, the reducer has a smaller hole.
Q: My Zanussi sticks on rinse, what can cause this?
A: This is a rare Zanussi Jetstream slimline model TJ1043 which is a hot and cold fill, 15 years old. After checking the normal things like a restricted waste pipe, and a blocked pump (and since there is no electronic display for fault-indications on older models), I decided to check some more basic things. I found that the COLD FILL pipe was completely blocked! The installer had used those “quick-fit” washing-machine taps that pierce the copper pipe and seal with a screwed clamp. The problem is that this small hole rusts over, because the steel pin corrodes over time. The fact that the hot-fill was very slow should have given me a clue, plus the fact that there was little or no water going around the dispenser compartments. After replacing BOTH taps with a pair of washing-machine TEE valves (SCREWFIX part 12004, or similar from any good plumbers or hardware/DIY store), the machine was back to normal. A pipe cutter was used to take out the 30mm section of pipe where the corroded holes were, and with the water off, this was a 30 minute job. Thanks to AB of Birmingham for this very useful FAQ information, that I am sure could apply to any machine with very old self-cutting taps fitted.
Q: My Hotpoint WM71 shows an E10 error code.
A: This code usually means that there is no cold fill. If the cold isolator tap has not been accidentally turned off, then most likely the clamp-on pipe (see previous FAQ) has corroded over time and needs changing to a proper isolator valve TEE. The other possibility is that the cold-fill valve has failed. This is the unit that the cold inlet pipe attaches to at the rear of the machine. For other HOTPOINT/CREDA fault codes see HERE
Q: My Hotpoint Aquarius trips the breaker at the start of a spin.
A: Thanks to MD of Dublin for this FAQ and FIX.This turned out to be a jammed pump, due to coins and dog-tags on one side of the filter, and a chain on the other side. Careful removal fixed the problem.
Q: My machine does not take in the softener
A: This is a very common problem. Softening liquid is rarely all taken into the machine, and what is left in the bottom of the dispenser drawer will thicken up when the machine is left idle. It will not always dissolve (especially the concentrated variety), and will often clog up the small siphon tube at the rear of the compartment. Also see HERE. To fix this, just remove the dispenser drawer (some machines have a little plastic device that pushes the latch that holds it in for the last inch, but usually just a god tug will free it, as most people loose this small item). When you have this out, you will need to remove the small cap from the yop of the siphon tube. It looks like a small white plastic thimble, and just pulls off. Clean this part in hot soapy water, along with the drawer itself. If there is a lot of scale around it, use a descaler, or LIMELITE and a small brush. If there is thickened softener blocking the tube below where the cap goes, try a drinking straw to clear it. Push the siphon cap back in place, but before pusing the dispenser drawer back, check the inside of the machine where it goes, with a good torch, to see if there is any build-up of soap and mouldy sludge around the spray holes at the top. BIO DETERGENT will often encourage this, bit it can be removed with an old tooth-brush and hot water. Do a “Maintenance Wash” after this (no clothes and no detergent on BOIL WASH), to clear out any bits that may have dropped into the drum, and it also helps to clear out the hoses. It would not hurt to thorw a cup full of washing soda crystals in the drum as well, before the maintenance wash starts.
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