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Q: Motor runs, drum does not turn
A: Nearly always the drive belt. Could be the 2 idler pulleys not providing enough tension, so could be a broken idler spring. Replacing the belt is a major task on most machines, it usually needs a lot of the casework removed and sometimes a top cross-member, and you will need to support the drum on something as the bearing will have to be slid away from the rear spindle. The main motor may well have to be unscrewed too, if a single motor design, as the brackets are usually in the way. If you DO have to pull any spade terminals off anywhere, make a note of where they go (or better still take a few shots with a good digital camera). Replacement is the reverse of the removal procedure, as they often say in car manuals.....
NOTE: while you have it stripped down, check the condition of the rear drum bearing, and replace it if worn. If it is a square Phosphor-Bronze one, that is worn oval, you may get away with rotating it 180 degrees! If the metal bracket or the drum shaft is also worn, there are sometimes repair-kits available. For some CREDA models, try this ESPARES link. This part fits several models.
Q: Motor tries to run, and hums
A: If its an induction motor, then the MOTOR START CAPACITOR is usually the culprit. You cannot test these with a normal meter, only for open or dead short. The 7 to 10 MFD capacitor is usually fairly cheap, and easy to replace. WARNING1:Capacitors can hold some charge, so do NOT touch the terminals. WARNING2:If the machine has run for a while like this, you may find that the lack of air flow due to the stalled motor, will have “opened” the safety cutout above the heating elements. So, using a test meter, with the machine SWITCHED OFF, and COLD, check for continuity of both the normal thermostat AND the safety cut-out. If either one is open, then you will usually have to replace these as a matched pair for safety reasons (see a related FAQ below). When you have checked the above, and replaced the capacitor, ensure that the drum reverses properly, if the reversing type. It is usually just a short 2 to 3 turns, and the “normal” direction is much longer. This is done via a small motorized unit, usually called a “MOTOR TIMER”, and the contacts inside it can get a bit burned an pitted if running for a while with a deteriorated start capacitor. If the motor and drum seem OK, but it does not reverse, you might need to change that unit. More expensive dryers might have a timer relay for this, or an electronic timer activating the relay. Check the relay contacts, and replace it if necessary. NOTE: for a very useful hint/tip from GK of Eastleigh, on how to confirm/test for a failed capacitor click HERE.
Q: Drum turns, but no heat (part I)
A: This usually means that one of the 2 thermostats have failed. These usually sit above, or close to, the heater assembly. You can usually get at this by removing a separate rear heating duct panel. See WARNING 2 above. Note you will have to replace these as a pair on some models, such as Creda, or Hotpoint (See related FAQ HERE, and cut-out kit identification guide HERE). It is also possible for the heating element to fail, but this is rare. The crimp connectors can corrode though, and the element then might measure “open”. If you don’t have a meter handy, rig up a 250 volt test lamp, with INSULATED CROCODILE CLIPS and connect across the heater terminals (on the heater side of the thermostats) WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED!. Turn on, switch to a normal (NOT ECO) mode, see if the lamp lights up. If so, it’s the element. If not, remove the power, reconnect it between the normally LIVE side of the thermostats, and the return side of the element, try again. If it lights up this time, then its the thermostat(s). If not, then it may be there is a heater control relay, or a circuit board controlling this that has failed.
NOTE: Some models of condenser dryer, like some older ZANUSSI, have a separate hot air motor, as well as the main circulation fan (that fan usually sits on the end of the main drum motor shaft). I have known these work intermittently, causing the heater thermostats to cut in. You can usually tell if this has happened, because the rear of the machine will be hot, but the exhaust air will be relatively cool. If this has happened, some of these motors cost OVER £150 to replace, so it usually puts it beyond economical repair.
Q: Zanussi:Drum turns, but no heat II
A: Thanks to MS of Warrinton for this FAQ. This is a Zanussi condenser Dryer TC7102S.The drum was turning OK, but there was NO A.C. voltage to the heater elements, and both thermostats on the heater unit measured OK (zero OHMS when cold). After tracing the wiring back, it was found that there was an extra thermostat on the front inner frame of the machine, just in front of the drum. This had failed, and was permanently open circuit. See ITEM 3 in the exploded diagram.
Q: Drum turns, ECO position cold
A: If the normal 20 minute hot cycle is fine, but the ECO moisture sensing is not working, take the top off, and check that the little spring and brush (often with a red wire), is not damaged, or fallen off. It should contact an insulated metal strip, running all around the drum. The strip in turn, connects to a sensor disc. This is a ceramic disc, with a chrome top, and any moisture from the damp clothes forms a low voltage circuit to earth through the drum.This is usually TOO SMALL a current and voltage to trip any Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker. The brush is usually easily adjustable in position, so just make sure it makes good contact with the metal strip around the drum, and check that there is good continuity between the brush, and the end that goes into the electronics. NOTE: some more expensive dryers may have a moisture sensing device in the exhaust air ducting, check with a parts supplier.
Q: Delay timer or control knob sticks
A: These are sometimes just mechanical, and you MIGHT be able to get the appropriate part, but most of the “overnight delay” ones are driven by a little electric timer motor, or “picker”, or “pecker-solenoid”. If not too old, and a well known make, you may be able to get the failed part.
Q: Condenser Dryer- Water does not go into the removable tank, but leaks out of the back. What can cause this?
A: This is most likely the drain-tube cover has come off during a move, or it has split or perished, or become damaged. The drain tube at the rear normally has this rubber cover removed only during maintenance, when the dryer has to be tipped up to replace parts. It will normally have a couple of cup-fulls of water come out when the cover is pulled off. This will be from an intermediate tank, with a float-switch, that senses when the main removable tank is full. Thanks to JE of Essex for this FAQ. She confirmed this was the case. I suggested that until the proper part could be found or obtained, a temporary measure is to cut one of the fingers off a rubber glove, and push it over the pipe. This worked fine. If YOUR specific problem with rear leakage is NOT the drain tube, test the water tank itself for leaks, and the correct operation of the valve, and black O-ring is in good condition. Also, remove the condenser box, that usually slides in above the water tank, and check with a good torch at the inside rear, that there has not been excessive build up of wet lint, that might prevent proper seating of the water tank (at the point where the valve goes in) or operation of the buffer-tank and the float-switch.
Q: Hotpoint Dryer- does not heat up to dry clothes, what can cause this?
A: The problem is usually the auto-reset thermostat, or the safety cut-out thermostat. The safety cut-out is usually what is termed a “ONE-SHOT” device, rather like a fuse. These are collectively called cut-outs, and usually come as a pair, in a kit, with a lot of Hotpoint and Creda tumble dryers. Although you can easily check which one has failed with a meter (from cold, with the machine OFF and NO POWER APPLIED, both these should read zero ohms (i.e. continuity). It is POSSIBLE that the element may have failed, but it is less common. There are usually 2 sections, and each should read about 30 or 40 OHMS on a test meter. The EZEE-FIX site has a useful section on cut-outs. However, there is an identification guide on the next page linked HERE NOTE: although the cut-outs can operate due to blocked ducting, it is also possible that the fan motor has been stalling, and not starting properly, so it is advisable to check that out too. The motor start capacitor can cause this problem, see related FAQ
Q: Condenser Dryer - trips power after 20 minutes use.
A: I have had a few FAQ’s come in about this sort of problem recently. The culprit seems to be the CONDENSER BOX. This can quickly get blocked up by soggy wet lint/fluff debris from clothes. Some clothes shed more than others, so it is best to check this frequently. What happens is that when the CONDENSER BOX gets partially blocked up, it fails to condense the steamy moist air into water efficiently, and the insides of the drier start to get damp ans steamy. Depending on the amount of moisture, and the make (Some Zanussi and Hotpoint driers may be vulnerable to this), if any vulnerable electrical part get too damp, then there will be a “flash-over” between a live component and neutral or earth (usually a part connected to the casework). This can cause the RCD to trip, or trip the kitchen circuit breaker, or in older consumer units, a fuse will blow. The fix: remove your condenser box, and give it a good spray clean in the garden with your garden hose. Any large lumps of fluff/lint that are stubborn can be pushed out from between the condenser slots with a plastic ruler. Allow to dry. Then , with power removed from the drier, use a good torch to check that there has not been any build-up of fluff behind the condenser box area at the rear. You may need to remove the water tank as well to see more clearly. It is worthwhile also checking the little buffer-tank at the back, where there is a level sensor switch for the water tank level. If it is full of gungy water and lint, try to give it a clean out. Give your machine an hour or 2 to dry out internally a bit before attempting to dry any clothes, in case the fuse/breaker goes again. If it DOES go again, try leaving it for linger. If it still fails after being left for 24 hours, there may be a more permanent fault that may require an engineer visit. Unless you are very good at tracing internal wiring, and are good at leakage testing with the high OHMS range on a test meter, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX THIS TYPE OF FAULT.
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