Lamps Hints

SAFETY: always ensure there is NO POWER TO THE LAMP FITTING WHEN REPLACING BULBS. SWITCH OFF THE APPROPRIATE CIRCUIT BREAKER OR REMOVE THE LIGHTING CIRCUIT FUSE IF UNSURE OF THIS
Only fit the correct wattage lamp to your fitting. Very few ceiling fittings will take a 100 WATT lamp, so if unsure, go for a 60 Watt. Pendant chandelier types with 4 or more lamps, will usually be 40 Watt candle type. See LAMPS FAQ for base types.Too high a wattage than the fitting is designed for, will reduce the life of the wiring and fittings.
If a failed bulb is hard to remove from a chandelier fitting, remove the glass shade first if it is the type that unclips over the candle bulb. YOU MUST ENSURE THAT THE LAMP IS OFF FOR THE NEXT BIT (SEE ITEM 1). Use steps to get level with the lamp (you do NOT want bits of glass falling on you, if looking up, very dangerous!), and use 2 thick dusters to twist the lamp, while holding the fitting (sometimes the fitttings turn a bit). The solder tabs, on the end of the lamp will often “bed into” the fitting prongs, and require a reasonable force (upwards and anti-clock-wise motion) to remove it. Solder is soft, so it eventually “gives”.
If doing the above results in the glass coming off the base, get a good pair of insulated pliers, and with a duster over the end of it, grab the rim of the metal base firmly, push into the fitting while turning anticlockwise. The duster is to prevent the metal end of the pliers from tripping the ELCB (Earth Leakage Cicuit Breaker). However, if you have followed item 1, this should not happen, and ELCB’s are rarely on the lighting circuit anyway.
If replacing a ceiling fitting, always make a drawing and note of what wires connect together, and where the EARTH, and the 2 switched feed wires go to, for the pendant wires. Follow SAFETY item 1 before removing/refitting any wires. See an FAQ on this HERE and a picture of pendant wiring HERE. For a good reference set of wiring diagrams, see the TLC site at: THIS LINK
If your new fitting is a bit heavy, and the second screw misses the joist (a common problem, if you want both screws to be strong), use a bit of wooden batten, or nogging in the ceiling (easy from the loft!), and use “no-nails” or similar cartridge based adhesive to glue it to the plaster-board, over the screw hole. Allow a couple of hours to set hard enough (check the setting times on the instructions) before attempting to drill and insert a screw.

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