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- FUSE INFORMATION:The The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994, states the following:
Typical fuse ratings for 220-240 voltage equipment: up to 750 watts - 3 Amp, up to 1250 Watts -5 Amp, over 1250 Watts -13 Amp.
A lot of Portable Appliance Testing sites state the following:
For the convenience of users, appliance manufacturers have standardised on two plug fuse ratings- 3A & 13A and adopted appropriate flex sizes. For appliances up to 700W a 3A fuse is used, for those over 700W a 13A fuse is used.
Confusingly, you can still obtain 2 AMP, 5 AMP, and 10 AMP fuses from some wholesalers, in addition to the standard common 3, 5 and 13 amp ones mentioned above. Maplin only stock the 3, 5 and 13 though.
- RULE OF THUMB FOR PLUG REPLACEMENT: a new plug will nearly always come with a 13 amp fuse fitted. If you are replacing a kettle plug, or heater, or ANY APPLIANCE OVER 1200 WATTS, THEN THE 13 AMP FUSE IS THE CORRECT ONE. If the item is an iron, or toaster, or other appliance rated at between 700 and 1200 watts, then fit a 5 amp fuse. If it is a small low wattage appliance, like a table lamp, radio, DVD player, Video recorder etc, then a 3 amp should be fitted, provided it is rated at less than 700 watts. The reasons I have stated 700 rather than 750 watts, is firstly that the PAT testing sites and manufacturers use this simplified “threshold”, and secondly, that if your supply is a bit “peaky” for long periods, i.e. closer to 250 than 240 volts, you would be running your 3 AMP fuse at exactly 3 AMPS. A HiFi receiver for example may show,say 550 watts on the rating plate, but if it also controls a CD player, and tape player through its power control, the switch-on surge might still blow a 3 AMP fuse. In these circumstances, it is perfectly safe to use a 5 AMP fuse if required.
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