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Watchmakers Tools from Westfalia
Battery Information

This page contains SPECIFIC watch battery information, a partial look-up chart, and some information on how to replace a watch battery.

Watch_Clip_Art - Page Identification
Picture of a Watch Battery

NOTES: VINNIC cells may have a D before the number, Varta tend to prefix the normal numbers with a V. BULOVA, CITIZEN, SEIKO and TIMEX, have their own battery range and numbers.

For some reason, the second column (Maxell/Sony/Panasonic) have a code that represents a size or size range, but the standard numbers do not seem to have sizings based on the number. However, just use the lookup table to convert. The battery numbers with an S or SW at the end, signify a higher (W), or lower (SW) drain current cell.

For instance the Maxell/Sony/Panasonic SR626SW found in many watches, and “insert movements” (see below), is the same as a 377 battery. The high-drain W suffix battery would be used in watches that need a bit of extra current, for the backlight or alarm. So, in this case, the SR626W is equivalant to the 376. The 377 and 376 ARE THE SAME SIZE, so fitting one presents no problem, and these can last longer in watches without alarms or backlights.

Check the full list at: http://www.watchbattery.co.uk

The 386 / SR43W is another common silver-oxide cell that is frequently found in watches. The 386 / SR43W is high drain and suitable for devices that require slightly higher running current, such as watches with backlights and alarms.

The low drain equivalent of this 386 / SR43W cell is number 301, and it can be substituted with the high drain 386. The size is identical so there is no physical problem in doing this, and the price difference is minimal. In fact, at http://www.watchbattery.co.uk the price is the same (£1.25), and that includes post and packing! I have used them many times, and their service and delivery is excellent.

Many small ornamental clocks have what are called “insert movements” in them. They are usually just watch movements, of a specific size to suit the ornamental nature and size of what they are inserted into. A lot are just Gents sized movements, with a special back (often with a small removable plastic disc, so you can get at the battery). The outer part of the case usually has a rubber ring fitted, so that the movement is just a push fit, into the hole. This is also typical of the “resin” decorative bodies (for example, a resin moulded “BIG-BEN” clock). My wife has about 8 decorative clocks with insert movements in them, but there seems to be 2 movement sizes. Nearly all of them take the number 377 battery. I bought 10 a while ago, and got a small discount, buying 10 of the same type.

 

Rayovac, Renata, Ucar

Maxell,Sony, Panasonic

Varta

IEC Number

301

SR43SW

V301

SR43

303

SR44SW

V303

SR44

309

SR754SW

V309

SR48

313

 

V313

MR44

315

SR716SW

V315

SR67

317

SR516SW

V317

SR62

319

SR527SW

V319

SR64

321

SR616SW

V321

SR65

323

 

V323

MR48

325

 

V325

MR41

329

SR731SW

V329

 

333

 

 

 

335

SR512SW

V335

 

337

SR416SW

 

 

339

SR614SW

V339

 

341

SR714SW

V341

 

343

 

V343

MR42

344

SR1136SW

V344

SR42

346

SR712SW

V346

 

350

 

V350

SR42

354

 

V354

MR43

357

SR44W

V357

SR44

361

SR721W

V361

SR58

362

SR721SW

V362

SR58

364

SR621SW

V364

SR60

365

SR1116W

 

 

366

SR1116SW

V366

 

370

SR920W

V370

SR69

371

SR920SW

V371

SR69

373

SR916SW

V373

SR68

376

SR626W

V376

SR66

377

SR626SW

V377

SR66

379

SR521SW

V379

SR63

380

SR936W

V380

SR936

381

SR1120SW

V381

SR55

384

SR41SW

V384

SR41

386

SR43W

V386

SR43

389

SR1130W

V389

SR54

390

SR1130SW

V390

SR54

391

SR1120W

V391

SR55

392

SR41W

V392

SR41

393

SR754W

V393

SR48

394

SR936SW

V394

SR936

395

SR927SW

V395

SR57

396

SR726W

V396

SR59

397

SR726SW

V397

SR59

399

SR927W

V399

SR57

166

LR43

 

LR43

A76

LR44

 

LR44

REPLACING A WATCH BATTERY:

First, check you have a set of jewellers screwdrivers handy, and a blunt small knife or pen-knife blade.A jewellers loupe (magnifying glass that fits on the eye), or a magnifying glass will also be useful. Also make sure you have a good light to see what you are doing. A good desk lamp is ideal. Choose a clean dust free area to work, the last thing you need is for a bit of fluff or crumbs from a table getting into the watch movement. That could easily jam the very small parts.

Then, check that the watch is NOT a screwed back type, with a series of square notches around the back. If so, do not attempt to remove this, unless you have the correct tool. The more usual SNAP-BACK type can be removed with the edge of an old (small) knife blade.I ground the pointed end of one, to a 2mm thin flat edge, for some of the larger gents watch backs.

You need to look carefully around the edge of the back plate,for a small bevelled edge, a few millimeteres long, that the edge of a knife will fit into. Lever gently between the case body, and the back, until it snaps or lifts off. If it comes of gently, it may be the type that holds the movement inside the back too. If so, gently take out the movement using the winder to hold it. Invert it, and with a magnifying glass (or jewellers loupe), check out the battery number. Note that some movements that are a lot smaller than the case, have a plastic insert to stop it moving about. This will have to be lifted out to get at the battery in most cases. Once you have obtained one, the next tricky bit is removing the old battery. Some just spring out, by pushing the battery against its little springy holder, and lifting out. The new one then just springs back in in reverse. Other movements might have a less springy retainer that needs loosening. You should see a small screw, at the end or base of the retainer. just unscrew it about ONE TURN, so that it moves sufficiently to allow the battery to come out (if you are unfortunate enough to have removed the screw completely, you will need watch tweezers to get it back in position). Once the NEW battery is in (the positive, or plus symbol is towards you, and this will be where the numbers and manufacturers name is stamped on it), then tighten the retainer screw.

The next tricky bit is getting the back on to the case. If the movement was the type that sits IN the rear case (often with ladies watches), then these push back fairly easily, one edge first. The snap-backs might need a bit of pushing to get them to fit back. TIP: ensure that any indent for the winder stem, is located at the correct point, otherwise this will prevent the back snapping back into place. Also, if the “O” ring seal (if fitted) has become displaced or damaged, it might stop it going back. If you are not too bothered about it being dust-proof ( or so-called “water-resistant”), then just remove the seal and try again.If it is a flat glass, you can try putting the watch face-down onto 2 sheets of A4 or similar paper,on a firm hard surface, and press evenly and firmly with both thumbs. If you still have no luck, you may have to get your local jewellers to use a case press to get it back. See the link below if you want to purchase case tools, or a case press.

For the enthusiast, who might want to do a lot of these as a hobby,try this link for specialist tools: http://www.agthomas.co.uk/CaseOpeners_Standard.htm

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