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This page contains SPECIFIC watch battery information, a partial look-up chart, and some information on how to replace a watch battery.
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NOTES: VINNIC cells may have a D before the number, Varta tend to prefix the normal numbers with a V. BULOVA, CITIZEN, SEIKO and TIMEX, have their own battery range and numbers.
For some reason, the second column (Maxell/Sony/Panasonic) have a code that represents a size or size range, but the standard numbers do not seem to have sizings based on the number. However, just use the lookup table to convert. The battery numbers with an S or SW at the end, signify a higher (W), or lower (SW) drain current cell.
For instance the Maxell/Sony/Panasonic SR626SW found in many watches, and “insert movements” (see below), is the same as a 377 battery. The high-drain W suffix battery would be used in watches that need a bit of extra current, for the backlight or alarm. So, in this case, the SR626W is equivalant to the 376. The 377 and 376 ARE THE SAME SIZE, so fitting one presents no problem, and these can last longer in watches without alarms or backlights.
Check the full list at: http://www.watchbattery.co.uk
The 386 / SR43W is another common silver-oxide cell that is frequently found in watches. The 386 / SR43W is high drain and suitable for devices that require slightly higher running current, such as watches with backlights and alarms.
The low drain equivalent of this 386 / SR43W cell is number 301, and it can be substituted with the high drain 386. The size is identical so there is no physical problem in doing this, and the price difference is minimal. In fact, at http://www.watchbattery.co.uk the price is the same (£1.25), and that includes post and packing! I have used them many times, and their service and delivery is excellent.
Many small ornamental clocks have what are called “insert movements” in them. They are usually just watch movements, of a specific size to suit the ornamental nature and size of what they are inserted into. A lot are just Gents sized movements, with a special back (often with a small removable plastic disc, so you can get at the battery). The outer part of the case usually has a rubber ring fitted, so that the movement is just a push fit, into the hole. This is also typical of the “resin” decorative bodies (for example, a resin moulded “BIG-BEN” clock). My wife has about 8 decorative clocks with insert movements in them, but there seems to be 2 movement sizes. Nearly all of them take the number 377 battery. I bought 10 a while ago, and got a small discount, buying 10 of the same type.
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Rayovac, Renata, Ucar
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Maxell,Sony, Panasonic
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Varta
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IEC Number
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301
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SR43SW
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V301
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SR43
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303
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SR44SW
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V303
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SR44
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309
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SR754SW
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V309
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SR48
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313
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V313
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MR44
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315
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SR716SW
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V315
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SR67
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317
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SR516SW
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V317
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SR62
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319
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SR527SW
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V319
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SR64
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321
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SR616SW
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V321
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SR65
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323
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V323
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MR48
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325
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V325
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MR41
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329
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SR731SW
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V329
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333
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335
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SR512SW
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V335
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337
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SR416SW
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339
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SR614SW
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V339
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341
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SR714SW
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V341
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343
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V343
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MR42
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344
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SR1136SW
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V344
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SR42
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346
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SR712SW
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V346
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350
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V350
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SR42
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354
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V354
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MR43
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357
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SR44W
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V357
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SR44
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361
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SR721W
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V361
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SR58
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362
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SR721SW
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V362
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SR58
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364
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SR621SW
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V364
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SR60
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365
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SR1116W
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366
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SR1116SW
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V366
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370
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SR920W
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V370
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SR69
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371
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SR920SW
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V371
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SR69
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373
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SR916SW
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V373
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SR68
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376
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SR626W
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V376
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SR66
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377
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SR626SW
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V377
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SR66
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379
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SR521SW
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V379
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SR63
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380
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SR936W
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V380
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SR936
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381
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SR1120SW
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V381
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SR55
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384
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SR41SW
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V384
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SR41
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386
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SR43W
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V386
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SR43
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389
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SR1130W
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V389
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SR54
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390
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SR1130SW
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V390
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SR54
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391
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SR1120W
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V391
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SR55
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392
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SR41W
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V392
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SR41
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393
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SR754W
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V393
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SR48
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394
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SR936SW
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V394
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SR936
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395
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SR927SW
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V395
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SR57
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396
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SR726W
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V396
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SR59
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397
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SR726SW
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V397
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SR59
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399
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SR927W
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V399
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SR57
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166
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LR43
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LR43
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A76
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LR44
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LR44
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REPLACING A WATCH BATTERY:
First, check you have a set of jewellers screwdrivers handy, and a blunt small knife or pen-knife blade.A jewellers loupe (magnifying glass that fits on the eye), or a magnifying glass will also be useful. Also make sure you have a good light to see what you are doing. A good desk lamp is ideal. Choose a clean dust free area to work, the last thing you need is for a bit of fluff or crumbs from a table getting into the watch movement. That could easily jam the very small parts.
Then, check that the watch is NOT a screwed back type, with a series of square notches around the back. If so, do not attempt to remove this, unless you have the correct tool. The more usual SNAP-BACK type can be removed with the edge of an old (small) knife blade.I ground the pointed end of one, to a 2mm thin flat edge, for some of the larger gents watch backs.
You need to look carefully around the edge of the back plate,for a small bevelled edge, a few millimeteres long, that the edge of a knife will fit into. Lever gently between the case body, and the back, until it snaps or lifts off. If it comes of gently, it may be the type that holds the movement inside the back too. If so, gently take out the movement using the winder to hold it. Invert it, and with a magnifying glass (or jewellers loupe), check out the battery number. Note that some movements that are a lot smaller than the case, have a plastic insert to stop it moving about. This will have to be lifted out to get at the battery in most cases. Once you have obtained one, the next tricky bit is removing the old battery. Some just spring out, by pushing the battery against its little springy holder, and lifting out. The new one then just springs back in in reverse. Other movements might have a less springy retainer that needs loosening. You should see a small screw, at the end or base of the retainer. just unscrew it about ONE TURN, so that it moves sufficiently to allow the battery to come out (if you are unfortunate enough to have removed the screw completely, you will need watch tweezers to get it back in position). Once the NEW battery is in (the positive, or plus symbol is towards you, and this will be where the numbers and manufacturers name is stamped on it), then tighten the retainer screw.
The next tricky bit is getting the back on to the case. If the movement was the type that sits IN the rear case (often with ladies watches), then these push back fairly easily, one edge first. The snap-backs might need a bit of pushing to get them to fit back. TIP: ensure that any indent for the winder stem, is located at the correct point, otherwise this will prevent the back snapping back into place. Also, if the “O” ring seal (if fitted) has become displaced or damaged, it might stop it going back. If you are not too bothered about it being dust-proof ( or so-called “water-resistant”), then just remove the seal and try again.If it is a flat glass, you can try putting the watch face-down onto 2 sheets of A4 or similar paper,on a firm hard surface, and press evenly and firmly with both thumbs. If you still have no luck, you may have to get your local jewellers to use a case press to get it back. See the link below if you want to purchase case tools, or a case press.
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